{"id":2247,"date":"2019-06-06T09:03:22","date_gmt":"2019-06-06T09:03:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gardener.guide\/?p=2247"},"modified":"2020-01-22T08:50:20","modified_gmt":"2020-01-22T08:50:20","slug":"14-steps-of-successfully-growing-cauliflower-at-home","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gardener.guide\/14-steps-of-successfully-growing-cauliflower-at-home\/","title":{"rendered":"14 Steps of Successfully Growing Cauliflower at Home"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Cauliflower is a part of the cruciferous family. This is the same as broccoli. Both of these vegetables contain a wide variety of nutrients including antioxidants, minerals, vitamins, as well as other phytochemicals. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cauliflower provides a good source of riboflavin, thiamin, protein, vitamin K, magnesium, fiber, phosphorus, folate, vitamin B6, potassium, manganese, and pantothenic acid. Cauliflower also contains numerous antioxidants, which are important for your health overall. \t<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When it comes to growing cauliflower in your garden there is some good news as this crop is relatively easy to grow and the benefits of having fresh cauliflower available for your dinners throughout the summer are numerous. If you are planning a garden and trying to decide what you want to include, cauliflower should definitely be on your list. It will provide you with many wonderful meals and side dishes throughout the season. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here are several tips on how to grow cauliflower in your home garden. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. When to Plant<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Cauliflower is considered to be a cold-weather crop. This is because it does not do well in temperatures that are above 80 degrees F. While this vegetable does require a bit more attention and care than other types of vegetables, if you do a bit of preplanning it can be a very good cool weather crop. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You should begin your seeds in the latter part of the summer if you are growing the vegetable outdoors. You can also plant cauliflower indoors in a cooler spot such as a cellar or a basement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

If your local temperature does not go below 20 degrees F, you can grow cauliflower outside during the winter months and then harvest the vegetables during the spring months. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is important to make sure that you remember that cauliflower will not grow well in weather that is too hot, so if you are in a subtropical climate, growing cauliflower may not be the best choice. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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2. Soil <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

When it comes to soil, cauliflower is a bit finicky. To grow the best cauliflower you are going to need to use soil that has a high amount of nutrients. In addition, the soil has to be well watered all throughout the growing season. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Before you plant your cauliflower you are going to want to make sure that you test the soil and make sure that it is not missing any nutrients that the plants require. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are soil testing kits available that will inform you of what your soil might be missing. If you discover that your soil is nutrient deficient you can add manure to it in order to boost the nutrient content. You may also choose to add fertilizer to the soil in order to improve its overall nutrient supplies. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taking the time to make sure that your soil has the proper nutrients will go along way when it comes to growing cauliflower. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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3. Types of Cauliflower<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Another thing that you need to consider when you are trying to successfully grow cauliflower at home is the type of cauliflower. There are several different types of cauliflower from which to choose. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some of the early season varieties of cauliflower include Denali, Panther, and Snow crown. These early-season varieties will typically mature in just seventy to eighty days. These varieties tend to have heads that are less dense and smaller. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The taste will typically be less sweet as well. The other types of cauliflower are midseason. These varieties will need over 80 days to become mature. Some midseason varieties include Skywalker, Candid Charm, Orange Burst, and Graffiti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

These varieties take a bit longer to grow, but they are bigger and have a sweeter taste than the earlier season varieties. The climate that you live in will determine which types are best for you to grow. Ask a grow club or someone at your local farmers market which variety is best for your area. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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4. Starting from Seeds<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Before planting cauliflower seeds the first thing that you should do is to check for the recommended planting dates for your particular climatic zone. Generally speaking, you want to start seeds a month to six weeks before the last forecasted frost date. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cauliflower grows best when it is started in seed trays with some seed compost instead of multipurpose compost. When you are ready to plant your seeds you will want to plant one or two seeds in each cell. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You should push them in at about a half-inch depth. If both of the seeds germinate, choose the one that is most robust and snip the other one using gardening shears. Do not pull out the second plant as this can cause damage to the roots of the stronger plant. Place the seed tray in a greenhouse and gently wet it. It will take about four weeks for the seeds to germinate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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5. Transplanting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

When you start cauliflower in seed trays you will then need to transplant them into your garden. Before you transplant the seedlings you will first want to place them outdoors for at least a week and up to ten days. This helps to harden them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You should start by putting them out for just a couple of hours and then increase the amount of time each day. Once the seedlings are ready to be transplanted you will want to wait for a day that is somewhat overcast or during the evening areas so that you prevent wilting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You should plant each seedling about twenty inches apart. If you put the plants too close together you will end up with smaller heads. Make sure that the soil is ready for the transplants. The soil needs to be rich in potassium and nitrogen. The pH should be from 6.0 to 7.0. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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6. Watering<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Cauliflower plants need plenty of water in order to thrive. You are going to want to water your plant trays regularly. When the seedlings are ready to be transplanted you are going to want to make sure that you water the trays about an hour before you plan to transplant them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once you have placed the seedlings in the ground you are going to want to make sure that you water the plants again. Do not soak the ground. Placing mulch around the plant will help to protect the plants from heat and also slows down evaporation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is important to make sure that you keep your cauliflower plants moist all throughout the growing season. If your cauliflower plants taste bitter it is a sign that they have not been watered enough. You can create a dam around the cauliflower plants in order to prevent water runoff. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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7. Fertilizing<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

As mentioned, cauliflower plants are very particular about the soil that they grow in. These plants need plenty of nitrogen in order to grow properly. In order to ensure that your plants are getting the nutrients that they need, you should apply a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen at least once every couple of weeks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some of the best fertilizers are liquid seaweed feed, compost tea, fish emulsion, chicken manure pellets, or a combination of chicken manure and seaweed. If you notice that your cauliflower plants are starting to turn brown or if the tips of the leaves of the plants start to become distorted, there is a good chance that the plant is lacking the nutrient boron and you will want to make sure that there is boron in the fertilizer that you are using. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Make sure that you are testing your soil regularly to ensure that it contains the proper nutrients. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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8. Blanching<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

If you are growing any type of white cauliflower variety it is important to make sure that you are providing the plants with some shade after the heads grow to about two inches. If you do not provide the plants with some shade you are going to end up with heads that are yellowish in color. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You will prepare the plants to be blanched on an afternoon that is sunny and when the plants are dry. Heads that are damp are more susceptible to becoming rotten. To provide shade you can simply bend the leaves of the plant over the head and then tuck them in. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can secure leaves with some soft twine, plastic tape, or rubber bands. Make sure that you use enough leaves to help keep out moisture and light. Make sure that you allow a bit of room for air to circulate and so that the heads of the plants can grow. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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9. Diseases Affecting Cauliflower
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Cauliflower has a risk of contracting numerous types of bacterial and fungal infections. Gardeners need to pay special attention to their crop, especially after the stems start to flower. Flowering cauliflower is a magnet from both insects and pathogens, so make sure that you know the signs of what you are looking for during your crop inspection.
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Black rot presents the most significant threat to your cauliflower crop. This bacterial pathogen, Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris, commonly affects plants in the brassicas family. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This seed-borne pathogen spreads onto seedlings from infected rats or insects feeding on the cauliflower, and the disease remains in the soil for up to three years after harvest. Gardeners will have to avoid planting in this area of the garden while it recovers from the infection. The pathogen can also remain in dead foliage, and spread to other areas of the garden, infecting the rest of your crop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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10. Pests Affecting Cauliflower
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The onset of disease presents a significant threat to the health of your cauliflower crop. However, growers also need to pay attention to the presence of insects as they start to hatch toward the begging of the springtime. Insects and pests can devastate the viability of your crop if you don’t keep an eye on what’s happening closer to harvest time. 
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The most common type of insect affecting cauliflower production is the cabbageworm. The cabbageworm is similar to a caterpillar, and it burrows its way through the head, eating its way into oblivion before depositing eggs that exacerbate the infection.\u00a0
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Cabbage root maggots are also a concern, and this infection eats away at the plant’s ability to feed itself, causing rapid wilting and dehydration of the cauliflower head. 
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Aphids are also a threat to your harvest, as they like to get in-between the leaves, and inside the cabbage head. Any gardeners that harvest a cauliflower head full of aphids will be most disappointed at the results of their efforts. Aphids are also notoriously hard to exterminate from the garden, and they will infest many other nearby plants as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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11. Companion Plants
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One of the best ways to prevent disease and pests from settling on your plants for lunch is to plant companion plants in and around your garden. Companion plants can save your crop from infestation or infection, and they also have other functional and nutritional value as well.\u00a0
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Start your companion planting by sewing a row of marigolds around the edge of your flowerbeds. These plants are the bane of many insect types, and in most cases, the presence of marigolds is enough to deter many pests. 
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After defending the perimeter, work on planting companions in and around your cauliflower. We like to plant radishes in-between our cauliflower heads to benefit from their short stature and fast finishing time. In most cases, radishes finish in 40-days, and they loosen the soil for the cauliflower, providing aeration.
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Herbs like garlic and chive also protect your cauliflower from pests, and they taste great in your recipes as well.
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12. Rotate Your Crops
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One of the best ways to ensure the productivity and health of your crop, year after year, is to follow a crop rotation strategy. Leave one-quarter of your garden open after fertilizing and tilling the soil. Leave this area to rest for the remainder of the year, while you plant in the other three-quarters of the plot.
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As previously mentioned, should your cauliflower contract a bacterial or fungal pathogen, they may contaminate the surrounding soil for years to come in the future. Therefore, anything you plant in the same spot will provide food for the pathogen, extending its longevity in the soil.
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However, if you have a prime patch of fertilized and rested soil in your garden, then it won’t have as much effect on your next year’s crop production, and you then have the opportunity to rest the infected area, improving its recovery while protecting other plants in the garden from diseases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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13. Harvesting Your Cauliflower
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From planting to harvest, most cauliflower takes between 85 to 130-days to reach maturity from seed. The final flowering time depends on the growing conditions, with most cauliflower preferring colder to moderate environments, with plenty of water available for growth. 
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Ideally, your cauliflower heads should reach between six and eight inches in diameter before they are ready for harvest. You’ll notice the cauliflower heads gradually fill in the gaps as they thicken up during the final weeks, resulting in a white, puffy cauliflower floret that looks delicious. 
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Cut the heads at the base below the leaves. The leaves serve as protection if you’re curing the cauliflower in a root cellar. We recommend looking in between them for signs of aphids, caterpillars and other pests before taking it inside. 
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You’ll notice that a few of your cauliflower heads appear coarse, or may have started to sprout flowers. Discard this heads as they will have a bitter and dry taste that’s unappealing at the dinner table.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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14. How to Store Cauliflower
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After harvesting your cauliflower, take it indoors and strip all but the last layer of leaves from the head. Look at the cut surface of the stem of any signs of rot, and peel back the final layers of the cauliflower to inspect for disease and pests. If you suspect caterpillars are in your cauliflower. Soak it in the sink with some water, and the bugs will swim from the surface.
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After soaking, you’ll have to eat your cauliflower, and storing it may induce rotting. 
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However, if you’re confident that there are no bugs or disease in your cauliflower heads, you can store them in the crisper drawer of the fridge for up to two weeks. It’s possible to blanch and freeze your cauliflower for long term storage. If you want to give freezing a try, then we recommend you trim the florets from the central stalk before blanching and sending it to the freezer.
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